The Sacred Rock -- Uluru

On Tuesday morning, we left Cairns and the tropics for the Big Red Center of Australia and flew to Uluru, formerly known as Ayers Rock.  The pictures are ubiquitous, but really do not do it justice.  It is just immense, and sitting in the middle of the scrubby desert as it is makes it even more amazing.  We arrived in mid-morning (gaining 30 minutes with the time change), and after sorting out our hostel room (2 bunk beds, a window, and an A/C & heating unit) and rental car, as well as buying some groceries, we set out on our pilgrimage to the rock.

Following a stop in the visitors' center and a picnic lunch, we hiked all the way around the rock, a distance of not quite 7 miles, and took in the views from all sides. The weather was beautiful and the temperature comfortable, but the flies were annoying.  They didn't really bite, or seem all that interested in our food, but they swarm!  Jake had about 30 of them just sitting on his hat, and I used my scarf to cover my face.  Stopping to take pictures -- and having to uncover for that -- meant that they were all over you in a second.  There's a reason the gift shops all had fly nets for sale (but as a tip, they cost $7 less if you buy them at the supermarket!)!

We had strategically planned (I wish I could take the credit!), so we didn't have too long to wait to watch the sunset, the magical moment when the light seems to make the rock glow.  While we were watching and waiting, Hans kept busy by drawing a lizard in the sand, doing his best version of the Aboriginal art we had been looking at.  

Uluru is considered a sacred place for the Aboriginal people, and it is explained that they read the rock as we read Scriptures: apparently the law is clear by looking at the marks in the rock if you understand what to look for.  It's also explained quite clearly that the the rock is not really for climbing.  Climbing is only a special piligrimage for some initiated Aboriginal elders, and climbing never been the point of going to the rock.  However, since they understand that outsiders will climb it, despite their pleas, there are actual open hours for climbing, and a designated place to do so in an effort to avoid accidents.  For most of the time we were there, the climbing path was closed, but it did open for awhile late in the afternoon.  We were disgusted to watch so many people crawling over Uluru, so many of them joking and messing around.  We decided that we should feel sorry for them, perhaps they don't hold anything sacred enough to understand what it means to desecrate something that others care deeply about.

In between our philosophical discussions and our hiking, we did take plenty of time to enjoy the sheer beauty of the place.  We had planned our stay to give us two sunsets and two sunrises, and we didn't miss any of them.  We also enjoyed the solitude of being in the middle of nowhere.  The main parking lots and viewing platforms did fill up pretty well, even now during the off season, but once we hiked a mile, we had the place to ourselves.  We also went out in the dark to admire the stars -- not only the Southern Cross and alot of other constellations we aren't familiar with, but the millions of stars in the sky!  It's been awhile since we've seen the Milky Way shine so brightly, and I'm not sure it's ever been as clear as it glows over the Outback.  

We had alot of fun taking pictures, and while they may speak a thousand words, they can't do the place justice.  While I still try to "save film" by chosing the perfect photo, Jake and Hans both took scores of  shots.  They didn't seem to be deterred when I pointed out that out of the few hundred pictures they took I was only going to be able to share about a dozen of them, and we'd probably only print 2 of them.  My collage-making software is not cooperating, so I'm going to post them separately.  Here are a few of our favorites: