Surrounding Lake Geneva (the body of water, not the town) in Walworth County, Wisconsin, is a narrow footpath, used by Native Americans since probably around 2500 BC until the forced removal of the Potawatami tribe in 1836. It remained as a path for the workmen who used it to access the summer estates built by some Chicagoans following the great Chicago Fire in 1871, and continues to exist as a hiking trail that cuts through public and private land with a mandate that "the twenty feet leading to the shoreline be preserved as public domain". Today this makes it an incredibly unique hiking path that literally cuts through the backyards of mansions and along the beaches of summer camps. It's also one of "my places".
Throughout my childhood, my family participated in an annual retreat in Williams Bay, about 45 minutes from my hometown, and we spent as many hours as possible (or as many hours as my Dad had free to come walk with me, at any rate) walking the mile or so in either direction from the retreat center. I grew up, my parents moved away, and my number one "bucket list" item, dating from before the term "bucket list", was to hike the whole lake. This week marked my third circumnavigation in the past 11 years. I'm not exactly a frequent hiker here, but 3 times isn't bad, especially considering that I haven't actually lived anywhere near Wisconsin since 1993.
On previous hikes my companions and I took mental notes on ways to improve the walk. This time I used what I had guessed about in the past, and I think I nailed it.
The visitor's bureau tells people that the path is between 20 and 26 miles long, although I'm pretty confident with the 23-mile number, which not only agrees with what my Dad used to say, but also corresponds nicely to calculating my pace, current GPS data, Google Maps, and my friend's pedometer app. The visitor's bureau also tells people not to attempt to hike the path in one day, and to plan on a 10-hour hike if they do, but I'm here to tell any prospective hikers that if they want to hike it and know they can hike 20 miles, to go for it. Everyone else, do some shorter treks. It definitely is worth walking.
Begin by parking at Big Foot Beach State Park, which not only is across the road from a public access point to the trail, but also has both water fountains and bathrooms, complete with flush toilets and sinks. Also a vending machine full of a variety of live bait, but that doesn't have much to do with the quest to hike around the lake.
From the park entrance, cross the road and head to your left so you can walk around the lake in a clockwise direction. There is a narrow public access point right at the "corner" of the lake, marked with the "You are entering private property" signs that actually are the trail markers. It's kind of a funny system, but at least the trail remains open. The lake will remain on your right, although sometimes there are trees or houses in between you and the water. Now keep going for 23 miles until you find your car again, very simple.
There is bit more to it that that. For most of the hike, you are literally on private property, with the 1-3 foot wide path being the only legal way to cross it. Some of the home owners have gotten into the spirit of the trail and offer drinking fountains, art, and even a "magic mailbox" containing a journal to sign. Some people have beautifully maintained paths with benches, boardwalks, bridges, cedar bark, or flagstones, and some people offer muddy grass. But the lake is pretty, and the houses give you something to look at when the nature isn't enough. It's not often that I walk through the backyards of the 1%, after all.
The rest stops are few and far between, however, which is how I've hit upon the idea of a clockwise walk beginning from Big Foot Beach. It seems to place the picnic areas and bathrooms in relatively convenient spots, and puts the ice cream in downtown Lake Geneva after 20-ish miles where its most needed! It also leaves the worst of the path for the very end: the last half mile or so isn't actually on a path but on a shoulder of a road. But by then you are home-free. There are a few opportunities to purchase food, but take a picnic and some snacks, and plenty of water with you.
We joked that if we had actually been doing a marathon, someone would be handing us a medal, a beer, and some pizza at the finish line, and here we were with just our car air conditioners to look forward to, but that's ok. We took 8.5 hours, including stops. No t-shirt, it's true, but no entry fee, either. And one of the few "marathons" I've done where I know I'll be back...someday.
** Free public parking is available in Williams Bay and the town of Lake Geneva. My suggested parking area, Big Foot Beach State Park, charges an entry fee for those who don't have an annual pass. In 2017, it's $8 for cars with Wisconsin plates, $11 for out-of-staters. Bring cash if you will be arriving before the ranger station opens.**
Cool. Sounds fun.
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